KILVICKEON

 The Old Parish Church - Ruined

BUILT: Medieval - late 12th/early 13th century

DEDICATED TO:  Ernan, son of Eoghan nephew of St. Columba.
In 15th century known at St Eugenius in Ross

DENOMINATION:  Church of Scotland

STRUCTURE:  It's architecture is similar to that of St Oran's Chapel on Iona.   Built of local stone slabs and boulders and bonded with many small pinnings.   Many of  the larger stones have been set on edge which has been the cause of the collapse of much of the outer face work on the south wall.  There is some evidence that the external wall-faces were harled and buff-coloured sandstone, probably from Carsaig, was used to dress the stone.  Several prominent stone thatch-pegs can be seen which suggests that the original roofing was of thatch and would have helped in tying down the thatch with ropes in the frequent gales and storms.

The entrance to the church, an archway, was on the north side and is still intact.   The door could be secured by a draw-bar and the sockets for this can be seen in the right hand wall as you enter.  On the left, about a metre above eye-level is a very worn piece of carved sandstone believed to be a 'sheela-na-gig' - either a suggestive figure placed on an outer wall said to terrify and ward off evil powers or a medieval fertility symbol.  See Iona Nunnery

Windows can be seen opposite each other on the north and south walls.   Two further windows may have existed on the east and west walls.

The interior at one time was divided into the nave and the chancel - the latter comprising a third of the eastern end.  Holes to fix the timber screen can be seen on either side.

In the nave there is a late medieval grave-slab (1500 - 1560) with an inscription beginning HIC IACET MA/RIOTA [FIL]IA ..   'Here lies Marioa, daughter of ......'.

GRAVE YARD:  Surrounding the remaining walls of the church there is a grave-yard full of interesting grave stones bearing different emblems and local family names including those of Macnevin, McNeil, McPhail, McGillivray,Macdonald, Mackinnen, MacLean and Cameron.   They date from medieval to post-reformation and the most recent stone is dated 2002.  One notable person buried here is Colonel Archibald Maclean of Scoor, 'a man and a soldier whose deeds of gallantry in campaigns that made the British Empire will ever be dear to the hearts of his countrymen' (quoted from Rev.J.W.Macphail's 'Handbook To the Islands of Mull and Iona and Adjacent islands).   The former farmhouse at Scoor, which is visible from the grave-yard, was where the Colonel was born and died in 1817.

A variety of occupations are also recorded on the stones – cattle dealers, cartwright, sailors, merchant, colonial service.   In the east corner near the outer wall are two grave stones to unknown merchant sailors who died during the 2nd World War.

Several of the stones have been blown down and many have their inscriptions and embellishments worn away or covered in lichen.

HISTORY:  The church is known to be one of seven medieval parish churches of Mull and is contemporary with Pennygown and Inch Kenneth.   In 1791 the present incumbent, Mr Dugald Campbell had 3,002 people living in his parish and he noted that none were ‘Jews, negroes, gypsies, foreigners or persons born in England, Ireland or the Colonies’.    Mr Duglad felt ‘his flock were sober and industrious’.  (see p348 Mull the island and its people – Jo Currie).   He died in ?? and is buried in the east end of the grave yard with his daughter, but the tomb stone and surrounding wall are in disrepair and it is difficult to read the inscription.

 By 1795 the fabric of  Kilvickeon church was falling apart and although the church was still being used and is occasionally used today, a new church was built in Bunessan in 1804.   Heritors (landlords) were often reluctant to repair churches on their land and the weather was also a contributing factor.   When a new church was built in Bunessan in 1804 some of the stones from Kilvickeon were used.

SITUATION:  This ruined church lies SE of Bunessan between Loch Assapol and the sea.

APPROACH:  Along a gravel road at the end of which is parking space.   The church can easily be seen to the right.   There are then two gates to go through.   PLEASE KEEP THE GATES CLOSED AS THERE ARE SHEEP GRAZING IN THE FIELDS.   It can be muddy!

OTHER ATTRACTIONS:  A short walk will bring you to Kilvickeon beach and other sandy coves.

Scoor derelict village.

Wildlife and birds.